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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.